Xantrex inverter/charger performance figures

Any comments on battery life with current draws like that?

Doug.

Doug, Cracker did say 'quick test'. Cracker what type and capacity of batteries do you have? While up at Burren Junction (no mains power) three weeks ago, a lady in the pool was saying to another lady, how she could not understand how quickly the batteries went flat when she used the pop-up toaster!!! Pop-up toaster average 900w = 90amps at 12vDC

GD, Cracker has more amps onboard than Greg Normans's electric golf cart. He could pull 60 amps for hours without going near 50% depth of discharge or anywhere near the 25% max discharge rate before damage of a flooded deep cycle. Not that he's running flooded. I'll leave it to him to describe his full system. It is a credit to his research and his ability as it is mostly (batteries/inverter/charger) installed by him. Anthony Explore this Great Land ...Do it Easy ...Tow a Bushtracker

Ok.....I did a bit more testing last night, without the solar input assisting the inverter. I had done the previous test in the early am - so whilst their may have been solar input it should/would have been minimal. But just to be on the safe/accurate side I tested again last night. I found that the amp draw was:( ALL in 12 volt amps ) A/c fan speeds 1 = 12 amps 2 = 13 amps 3 = 16amps give or take .5amps The A/C when compressing showed: 1 = 70 amps 2 = 72 amps 3 = 76 amps The heater portion of the A/C unit sucked an amazing 152 amps ( I don't think I'll be using that) For those that are buying a compressor: I have needed to buy an air compressor - flat tyres etc. Like many of you I looked around which only made me more confused - do you buy the "Auto Cheap" air compressor which is exactly the same design as the "Repco" unit ( and a number of others) but sold for anywhere from 1-4x the price. The pumping figures claimed ....can they be believed? You've all heard the stories. " ( WHEN YOU RETURN IT FOR POOR PERFORMANCE) Yeah mate, it will pump up a L/Cruiser tyre in 3 min, ( Then comes the qualifier) ......but it has to be off the ground and you need to have the compressor no more than 8.3mm from the battery. Reply - Yes it was, I welded the compressor to the battery...... I see, but was it more than 15 Celsius ? - because it drops by XX% over and above that temp. ETC ETC ETC Call me a sceptic, - but when it says made in Australia on the box, it means that the box is made in Australia, and the has no reference to the actual contents. You have made the assumption that it refers to the contents. So to save all this I bought a 2Hp 240volt mini compressor. It draws 94 amps for the brief time that its pumping the cylinder, and this way I can use it around the home, as well. Very light and portable. As to the power drain of my system - I have installed 6 x 100 amp/hr @ 20hr Concorde lifeline batteries. I have also replaced both batteries in the vehicle - making them lifelines as well. When I'm hooked up to the van I will have access to these via the 175amp Anderson plug, giving a total capacity of 800amps, or 0r 400amps @ 50% discharge. I tested the 35mm2 Anderson plug - hooking it straight to the alternator via jumper leads ( I haven't installed the vehicle chassis rail portion of the cable yet). With the batteries showing 12.6 volts it accepted 40amps from the standard Toyota twin internal fan alternator. At Idle I get a 20 amp flow into the batteries. The logic with this approach is that I am able to use all the usual house items. I get up in the morning put on the toaster - make my toast, fire up the cappuccino machine and have my coffee ( before afternoon........hey Anthony).Minimal fuss. Start the car and continue on ..........charging the batteries as I go I tried the gas for making hot water ( as suggested by BT ) .....I'd have a birthday waiting the for the bloody thing to boil !. Contact with Bt .....reply ( qualifier) was, it's performance is effected by the legally imposed regulated pressure. - So you will need a "cut lunch" to wait for the billy to boil, using gas. I will list in point form the other experiences I have had / expect, with the system. The inverter/charger - has hit 110amps when recharging from Ac 240 ( talk about fast recovery) Honda EU10 generator will be enough to run the A/C - I checked the construction and was told it uses a cast iron sleeve in an aluminium cylinder, same as EU20. The rangehood needs to have a larger suction fan for venting - otherwise it looks like England in winter. * has anybody actually tried to start and run the AC unit on a Honda EU10 ? I would try it but the inverter would assist the starting from the batts( if needed ) so I wouldn't be able to say defiantly if it can be done.........just interested to know. Cracker

Wow, I think you would be able to make the claim of having the most power in a caravan in Australia. Why didn't BT want you to fit the Xantrax?

G'Day Cracker.
Tried to run the A/C from a Honda EU10i 2 years ago.
EU10i kept popping overload.

Regards
Turist.

PS. Maybe BOG Inc needs another position incorporated into the management structure.
Manager, Electrical Systems.
Are U gunna stand for election?

Cracker, Interesting about the Honda EU1.0 and its now cast iron bore. Did Honda Aust tell you that ... (therefore, the Honda guy at the show we asked the question of ... was outta date with his info) ? My EU2.0 will release the overload circuit breaker if you turn the air-con thermostat down to click out compressor and then back up before high pressure has bled off . The EU2.0 runs on eco-throttle with the rpm about 70-80 % of max (I estimate) compressor engaged. Watch the afternoon cappuccino mate ... 11.59.59 am is the limit for this black duck !! [limpWristedGrin] Anthony Explore this Great Land ... Do it Easy ...Tow a Bushtracker

Hi Turist, I checked the 240volt amps required from the A/C unit ( I can do this via the inverter charger unit) and I saw 9amps flash up for about .25 of a second then it went to 2.5 amps. It's a real bugger that you can't get the overload to hang on for a couple of seconds - because the EU10 has more than enough output to run the A/C & charge your batteries.as well So where did BT get the idea that the A/C unit needed 2.5 - 3.0 KVA generators to run.........( I think they read alot and tested a little) Cracker

I believe there is a method to allow you to reduce the start bump loading of electric motors by adding some extra capacitance with an electronic switch that kicks out after so many seconds. I remember a problem with a small single phase sewage installation two years ago that had limited power supply, and the electrician fitted some extra capacitors in a box with this electronic switch and overcame all the problems. The sewage pump was only 1.5 or 2hp so we are talking approximately same size motor to air con. I still remember the electronic switch was made in Australia. Probably a motor re-winder may be the person to ask. These Clamp digital meters from Jaycar are good as they have a data hold feature that will display the highest reading.

Yamaha are selling a 110v generator (1 or 2kw I think) in the US with a lead acid battery and inverter incorporated to take care of the short extra load for AC units and other electric motors. It has been available in RV stores for several years. Is anything equivalent available in Australia in 240v?

Doug.

Doug, These have been out for some time in Oz but Yamaha consider them new. They are available in 1 Kva (quiet) 2.8 Kva (not so quiet) and 3.0Kva (quiet) Below is a pic of the 1.0 Kva. Try www.yamaha.com.au for more specs and info. They are inverter technology like the Honda and have rpm/load calculators to reduce noise and conserve fuel like the Hondas (Eco-throttle). Regards Anthony Explore this Great Land ...Do it Easy ...Tow a Bushtracker