Water tank levels

We have a water gauge fitted to both our tanks It entailed drilling a 22mm hole in the side of the tanks. Both gauges have worked faultless over the last 5 years
over some pretty rough roads No leaks yet Pyrites Pete

I was fortunate enough to catch up with NomadsUsR (Ernie and Kay) and see Ernie's latest round of mods to his BT.

Amongst the many ...

Extra water tanks now totalling 6 ..each with an electronic water level gauge mounted on a wall inside ...extra strengthening to add to the sheet metal covers ... etc ...not bad for an 18fter ....

As I drain my 3 non-potables one at a time I get an idea of capacity left in thirds ... but I'd like a gauge in the potable .... another thing on the list !!

I dont think you will get a leak from the fitting that tightens when you install the gauge ..its a quality rubber compression fitting. Drilling a neat, clean hole in the tank is a must, no compromises. The best way would be a timber spade bit turning slowly in the drill .... a normal twist drill would not be suitable for a neat enough finish to seal ... a high quality sutton carbide hole saw (at the right speed) might be ok with a test drilling first.

Ernie should be able to advise here ?

Anthony

Hello Bob,
I've had a couple of these for two years and have had no problems and find them excellent. I now have six after fitting more tanks. I used a good quality new 22mm clean cut spade bit to drill the hole. Like all spade bits, don't try and withdraw it while the bit is rotating otherwise chattering will ocurr and damage the hole. The rubber bush used to seal the hole is simple but effective providing the hole is cut clean.

If you realy want to balance the van correctly knowledge of the water tank content is essential.

Ernie
(Aging is mandatory, acting your age isn't!)

We have electronic gauges fitted to 3 of our tanks. They are designed to be fitted in motor homes or boats that have, Fresh, Grey and Black water tanks, but I just relabled 2 of the gauges.

To fit mine you have to drill one hole at the bottom for the earth, then holes at 1/3rd, 2/3rds and full levels. The holes that I had to drill were only about 7 or 8mm and we haven't had any problems, including driving through Kimberleys and Pilbara.

we used to have a boat & the gauges on the tanks entered from the top maybe a little difficult for retro however the actual gauge had a decent looking face not like the oval ones i've seen at bti & on other vans(beauty is in the eye of the beholder)
does any body know the brand name of possible guages with snazzy faces
cheers

Bob et al,

KISS principle has been applied in my case. The simple installation of clear plastic tubing running off the draining outlet, up on the outside of the chassis with a loop at the top (inside the chassis) for venting and preventing dust and little animals from getting in. (similar to the grey pipe loop you already have on each tank). The Drain tap is re-installed on a Tee off this line, inside the chassis rail. The fittings should be covered with gal sheeting to prevent stone damage.
Total cost....about $30 and a couple of hours lying on your back.

You'll see the set up on my photos in the photo page on this site. I have since added a piece of gal. 50x50 angle to protect the taps as a rock had the audacity to smash one!

I have also marked on the gauges the full and empty positions when the van is level. This means that if you are on a slope and you have a full tank and an empty tank, you can interpolate levels in the other tanks.

Hope this is of some use to users of the KISS principle.

Cheers........Rob.

Rob,
I like your KISS approach to the water level indicators, and was impressed at Copeton when I saw it. My only reservation is in having a clear plastic tube as part (admittedly a remote part or corner) of the tank system. Have you had any problems with algae growing in the clear tubes?
cheers
Ian

G'day Ian and Robin,

Had some green algae appearing in the potable tank clear tube when we got back from Copeton. When we returned I drained all 4 tanks, then put a tablespoon full of sodium metabisulphate (The stuff used for sterilizing home brew equipment) in 4 litres of water in each tank. I then drove around over some rough tracks to swish it around, and after an hour, drained the tanks (van on 30 deg. slope so the taps are downhill). Then I refilled them - Rainwater in the potable (as always) and town water in the other three. That was 4 weeks ago and today there is no sign of any green.

I wonder if there would be any algae growth if I didn't have the short length - 300 mm - of clear tube for the gauge? If you don't have the clear tube, you'd have to wait until you saw it (or tasted it) in your drinking water glass?? I know that the green algae needs light for growth and if this was the source of the green, then why are the filler hoses made of clear plastic?

We are still learning from experience aren't we?

Cheerio...................Rob & Liz.