Levelling the van "TIP"

Please see a Follow up at the end of the thread about the reasons to do it on both wheels... Cheers.....

Trevor,
As Steve has stated below, what John has is several pieces of timber about 75mm thick and about 600 - 700 mm long. They are about the same width as the tyres (eg 200mm).

He placed 2 blocks on top of each other, on the ground about 250mm behind the rear wheel, and then used the 3rd one as a ramp by placing just behind the tyre and laying it on top of the 2 other blocks.

When he reversed up the ramp the ramp then flattens out as the wheel reaches the flat blocks and then the ramp forms the 3rd plank under the wheel.

It is important to have someone watching to tell you exactly when to stop. As Steve said, Low range is good for these occassions.

Also for those with a Techonsha prodigy brake controller, because they are so easy to adjust, I have found that it is a good idea to turn the trailer brakes down to zero, so that when you apply the vehicle brakes , the caravan brakes do NOT push the timber blocks out of the way. For those with other controllers it would probably pay to disconnect the trailer plug to prevent them comming on.

stg whats the geometry of the axle do when only one wheel rises or fall does the suspenion keep the van level or does the van follow the rising or dipping wheel ???

Hello,
I put timber or rocks or whatever under both wheels.... Because if you only put a small amount under one wheel, the load is shifted onto the other wheel, and in effect you only lift 1/2 of the distance for the smaller increments of measure until the other wheel is fully loaded. #@%&! Since I cannot draw you a picture, let me try another way to explain it....

In other words, a 50mm block under one wheel, could amount to only a 25mm lift to the caravan, as the suspension tandem ends are connected by the inverted springs (Load Sharing).... And the geometry involved means you do not get the full 50mm lift.... Only half at the "linear mid point between the two suspension arms" where the van lift point is.... Lift one end of the "see-saw" a value of two, and the midpoint fulcrum only lifts half that, or a value of one...

Where a 50mm block under both wheels will give you a 50mm lift... In other words, lift both ends of the "see-saw" a value of two, and the fulcrum mid point is lifted a value of two...

Hope my explanation can paint an adequate picture.... Ha!

thanks steve thats what i would have expected whats the wheel base of the tandem cheers

I like the description of the custom made device. a "doohickey", I cannot find that in a dictionary so I take it that it is something like a whatsamecallit or a thingamajig. {smile}

I think you are correct with what you have said Matt. When we have parked somewhere and after un-hitching decided that it required levelling side to side, I have jacked up one wheel and slid blocks in underneath.

As you said, jacking from that centre bolt requires a very big lift to get the wheels off the ground, and a bit of effort as you are lifting nearly half the van weight.

You're almost right re terminology but I think thingamajigs usually have a bigger flange, and often a left-hand thread! :)

I've now realised you can see a photo of Anthony's device in luvntravln photo no 30, as Freewheelers cited above.

Matt