That is the question I get now and then.. You can get any number of answers on grey areas, so you are forced to evaluate the validity and experience of the source… What experience, or just an unfounded opinion??? Opinions are like belly buttons, everyone has one, but you don’t necessary want a close inspection of them all. So, I qualify my opinion with an experience rating..
Tracy and I are paid to experiment around with all sorts of toys… We have done it full time for ten years with
Bushtracker, but before that I did it off and on for about the 35 years previous with all sorts of 4x4 vehicles as an “Enthusiast”…. Mitsubishi horse truck to F-350 Ford... In Toyota in Australia, I have owned two 75 Series, one stretched Troopie, a 60 Series, still have a 61 Series Toyota Sahara, a 100 Series, and have seen the results of Tracy and his 75 Series, and two 80 Series and a 100 Series… I am also the hub of reporting from countless people, on their successes and failures with all sorts of vehicles, towing Bushtrackers… Also Tracy and I have towed all sizes of vans, all distances short and long to Shows and trips and such… So, maybe this is more than just another opinion on the matter of adding a Turbo or not… As some are purchasing the 75 Series or 80 Series or standard GXL 100 Series Landcruiser like I have done, to get away from some of the perceived problems with the new Turbo Cruiser like the weaknesses of the IFS (Independent Front Suspension) and on board electronics to run the engine and electronic accelerator.. Some are also going that way just because they are on a bit of a budget, and can get a few year old tow vehicle for half the money… So the question comes up: “Do we need to add a Turbo to our Standard or GXL Toyota?” I think I deserve an Expert Rating, on Toyota Turbos, 2-H motors, 1HZ motors, and even repowered one with a 12HT, and still own two now.
The answer is three fold: Size of van, size of tyres, and justification for fuel economy… First, on size of van with the 1HZ motor: I think it is more necessary on 20’, may 60/40 in favour of the Turbo. If you are happy to poke along maybe you will be in the 40% of people that could get along without the Turbo. A performance oriented, impatient, hurry up type person, and you will want the Turbo for the 20’…Definitely! On the 18’, it is probably more like 60/40 against the Turbo… In other words the 1HZ does the job well enough on say 18’, that I am not sure I would bother… As to the 1HZ fairing with the Turbo, yes, it does well. The older 2-H has a heat problem with about half of the them that have added Turbos, even with larger four pass radiators, as soon as they start large towing they overheat so NO to the 2-H, but the 1HZ goes strong with a Turbo. Any engine rumours of problems with a Turbo on a 1HZ, have been traced back to low water or oil maintenance and not Turbo related. The lowest kms I have seen in hard work towing a 20’ van with an aftermarket Turbo on a 1HZ, was 270,000km and then started using oil. But we have seen many going 350,000 km and up… The short and long of it, is I would try towing with it first to see if I would bother, at 18’ or 19’, maybe even 20’ if you are a relaxed sort of person in no hurry…
However, this judgement is thrown out the window if you have larger tyres than standard in height, because it decreases power to the ground due to the larger circumference … In other words, it gives you taller gears, and less grunt down low, and grossly increases the need for the Turbo…
Now on fuel economy, there is an argument for the Turbo, (primarily by the Turbo Sellers) in that it can increase your fuel efficiency… I would throw that one out unless you are an extremely disciplined person, as you would have to feather the accelerator and drive extremely conservatively to see those results.. In truth, most people will use the power if they have it, so the increase in fuel economy or efficiency if there remains any at all, is very minimal… So much so as to be almost non-existent when compared to the costs of the Turbo… The same goes for the Intercooler. The cost is severe, and while some claim a 4% increase in power, it does not equate to enough savings to pay for it in an average 5 year time… It is easier on the motor with “relieved heat stress”, but even in that case may not pay for itself in the long haul of potential increase in engine life… It is debatable. The truth is most people tow with a lead foot, and if they have the power they will use it, so the fuel savings is nil in the overall argument.
Now for any new Visitors stuck in the
BOG, if you are wondering: “Why not just buy a the new Turbo 100 Series?” That is fine, and most are doing it, and it is still our most common Tow Vehicle for
Bushtracker, But, if you are on a bit of a budget or mechanically inclined, I am not sure you are not better off with an aftermarket Turbo on a Standard or GXL 100 Series for about half the money… One Customer just bought a 2002, with 58,000 km, and a few goodies on it, for $35,000. Many find this quite attractive for the following reasons:
1) The full engine electronic management makes it very hard to trouble shoot out bush if you have a problem. While this is present in many new vehicles, I am just a bit uncomfortable with something you can't fix without a computer. Mind you, this is just my opinion.. It is the trend with all new vehicles, even Ford, but it is a concern. The Standard, or GXL 100 Series is still an all mechanical engine. That same motor back to 1997has the big 3500kg towing capacity, and takes the aftermarket Turbo well, that any Bush Mechanic can work on if need be.
2) The IFS ( Independent Front Suspension), may have too many moving parts, and people have had problems already in the bush. It may be a luxury town car design, just not robust enough for the Outback.. Mind you, this is also just my opinion, and not the gospel, but I am concerned. There have been reports of sideways drift in the steering on the corrugation on a big curve in the road..... Not good... It is reported that it can be overcome by decelerating on the curves, to stop the harmonic motion of the IFS reacting to the corrugation; but is not a good sign.. And there have been some reports of mechanical failures and such that are a bit worrying…
3) The IFS required that the wheels be off-set 65mm to the inside, and they cannot work with our suspension in any case.... The tyres would just rub on the chassis, and the wheels go inside of the backing plate on the brakes, so the emergency hand brake would not work.... Now if you want to buy one, and many have, it is not a terminal problem. We can adapt the IFS wheels to your van with 65mm spiders that actually space out the wheels that 65mm offset... There are however two drawbacks. Firstly it costs $1000 for the adaptors and spare wheel carriers, and secondly they weigh about 35 kilos of steel to drag around plus bigger spare carriers to total about 40kg extra... I am not sure it is worth the bother, maybe just consider standard 5 stud 100 Series wheels.
It may come down to that cost is high in the IFS, when you can get a very good vehicle second hand for half the money, and add an aftermarket turbo.. In summary, I no longer think that a new IFS Landcruiser is the only game in town as far a Toyota is concerned, and you may want to rethink as it seems that there are several other choices that make sense.. People still buy the new IFS Landcruiser Turbo as our #1 tow vehicle, because of parking in the city, or tax considerations, or other reasons, but there are other options...
As to selection of a tow vehicle.... Here is possibly another option to consider.... A secondhand vehicle for half the money.... You should take a look at a magazine called the "4 x 4 Trader". There will be 500 vehicles in there for sale every month.. About once every three months for some reason there will be a half a dozen vehicles reduced to ridiculous prices all at once!! You have plenty of time while your
Bushtracker is being built.....You can get the RACQ to have a look at it, send pictures over the internet, negotiate a price, and have them meet you at the Airport to pick you up... For half the money, I am not sure that it isn't attractive. For example-I know personally, I would like a 97 to early 2000’s Toyota 80 Series or an a couple of year old GXL 100 Series for half the money, maybe even with extra equipment already on it; rather than all the fancy electronic run injectors and injection pumps of the new IFS Electronic Turbo model. The same goes for the other Brands. It seems as though the Company Engineers are designing the engines to take the maintenance out of the hands of the do it yourself people and make them dependent on the Dealerships for all service... That works in the Big Smoke, with only a $50 towing bill to the local Dealer.. But what about in Augathella? I would rather one I could work on myself… It is what I did in getting a new Cruiser for my wife, I bought a 2000- 100 Series, aftermarket turbo and intercooler, and it was loaded with extras like long range tanks, diff locks, air compressor, and much more.. It has no engine electronics to run the injection pump, injectors, and controls; and I feel that for a remote location, it is twice the vehicle as new, for about half the money. It also has the tried and true solid front monobeam axle housing... Same comfort and power and looks as the new IFS Cruiser, but possibly better “Bush Maintenance” reliability at a reduced cost.
Kind Regards, from the Lone Ranger on the look out...
