Friday, Jun 30, 2006 at 09:49
The durability of automatic transmissions operating under heavy loads or in duty cycles at the limit of their design capability has always been a challenge for drivers to accept there are some things that must be done to provide a trouble free life.
The problem is that there is not much in the way of published guidelines on what to look for and how to respond to the warning signs.
For those who may be interested I may be able to provide some guidance here that you could find useful.
First up a view of the Ford electronic overdrive transmissions, of which the E4OD and the newer 4R100 variants are topical. These are strong well designed transmissions with many thousands in service throughout the world including severe service in heavy duty towing and auto racing applications albeit in many of those severe duties there has been some design modifications carried out to enable the performance durability.
These transmissions have relatively lower control and apply pressure at idle or low speeds and can also at times be prone to “shift flair” where the clutch lockup is delayed generating very high temperatures in the clutch pack which both transfers to the transmission fluid and also more rapidly degrades the fluid. In the American market there are devices such as Torque Lockers [for the E4OD] that keep the torque converter locked down to a preset speed after which it unlocks to prevent stalling, Shift point change modules, “sport” style valving to boost control pressure rise and eliminate shift flair[4R100] etc etc, suffice to say the American market is awash with ideas to “fix” what already is a good unit.
But without going to these extremes there are some things you can do with a little bit of knowledge about the operating limits matched with your driving conditions, that will give you comfort/peace of mind that the transmission is going to keep you moving.
Looking at operating temperatures, there are a couple of things here.
A stable bulk oil running temperature is a must. If the temperature rises on uphill or generally hilly running or in headwinds then the transmission oil cooling system needs to be boosted.
Bulk oil temperatures less than 110 to 120 celsius should be targeted.
Above this range there is a real impact on oil oxidation [degradation due to heat] and above 140 celsius there is a doubling of the rate of oxidation for every 10 degree rise in temperature. So the message here is get the oil temperature stable and keep it below 120 degrees.
Now looking at mineral oil based transmission fluids versus synthetics. We’ll use the Castrol products as an example. The mineral oil GM Dexron brand is TQ Dexron 3, and the synthetic product suitable for the Dexron specification is Transmax Z. Some of you have chosen to use Castrol Transynd, similar comments as for Transmax Z apply.
We’ve already talked about bulk oil temperatures, however looking inside the transmission at some of the working areas there are some much higher temperatures generated.
In the clutch pack, the friction plates that make up the clutch are designed to operate within a defined temperature range, usually between 300 and 400 degrees. These clutches are oil flooded and the transmission fluid is used to dissipate the heat generated and therefore control the temperature of the clutch operation, so the transmission fluid has to withstand temperatures much higher than you see in the transmission sump. Elsewhere in the transmission the oil is undergoing much higher temperatures for example in the planetary gear set as gear teeth contact one another [momentary 600 celsius] , and in the torque converter.
It is in these conditions that the mineral oil versus synthetic fluids performance must be compared.
Firstly the effect of heat on the base fluid. The temperature at which mineral oil begins to oxidise is about 140 C, while synthetic fluids of the type used to formulate Transmax Z don’t begin to oxidise until well into the 200’s. So the synthetic is more stable until much higher temperatures are reached.
Next, the rate of the oxidation or degradation is much slower in synthetics, but antioxidants can be added to both mineral oils and synthetics to slow the rate down and thereby prolong the fluids life. Suffice to say the synthetic has a head start here.
Looking at the effect of heat on the viscosity of these transmission fluids shows very little difference between them, they both have similar Viscosity Indexes. They therefore both perform very efficiently as hydraulic fluids.
However the effect of pressure on the fluids shows a different picture. Under the extreme pressures encountered during gear tooth contact the synthetic has a higher viscosity than the mineral oil. The synthetic has a higher pressure-viscosity coefficient. What this means is the synthetics viscosity rises much faster under the high pressure of approaching metal contact this providing a thicker cushion of lubricating oil. It is this property that gives rise to the claim that the synthetics run cooler than mineral oil. They are simply able to keep the metal parts separated for longer thus reducing the time for friction induced heat build-up. With the appropriately calibrated temperature gauge you can see up to 10 degrees difference in transmission bulk oil temperatures. This is the result of the gear set being some 50 degrees cooler in operation on the synthetic.
So considering these differences, there is a real incentive to use synthetic transmission fluids as they are significantly more durable than mineral oils and in turn impart better durability to the transmission.
So to the question of oil drain interval.
My view is this….If the manufacturers recommendation is 40,000 km under normal service and you load up the vehicle for long distances by towing a load nearing its GCM, then you must halve the drain interval to ensure transmission durability.
If you use products like Transmax Z, and maintain the cooling regime as described you will see a return to the normal oil drain service interval and still retain transmission durability.
If you want to extend the drain interval, I recommend you have the transmission fluid tested every 20,000 km using an oil analysis system. These can be purchased from Castrol in kits that have the sample sent to an Analytical Laboratory with the results returned within the week advising on the condition of the oil and its suitability for further service.
If you don’t want to have the oil analysis done think about the cost of synthetics and drain interval in this way.
Let us assume the synthetic oil and transmission service costs $800. You travel 30,000 km each year and have the service carried out each year. It would take 10 years of servicing before you reached the cost of properly rebuilding a failed transmission.
After 10 years [and 300,000km] you could take the transmission out and replace it with a new one, of course you might also just get a new truck too!!!
Of course if you have a Toyota or Chev, or Hummer or anything else with an auto transmission these comments are equally applicable, for there are many stories of transmission failures to be told with these units when they are loaded to their limit and driven beyond it.
AnswerID:
568770
Follow Up By: Bushtracker - Friday, Jun 30, 2006 at 18:11
Friday, Jun 30, 2006 at 18:11
Lone Ranger here, Bushtrek. GREAT REPORT.. I am probably staying with the Ford for the benefits of a bulk of them in the country. You sound like a "Transmission Techie".. Auto trans doctor...
For my own benefit and any others that might have a 4R100 transmission fail, have you used any of the "Kits" that upgrade the internals on the transmission like the "Enforcer" here at www.transmissioncenter.net/E4OD.htm ? A scroll down to the bottom shows the kit to upgrade the trans. I have found this one, and been told about a few others, for about the $2500 mark that seem to build a Super Duty transmission for unlimited towing or horsepower. The PowerStroke
Forum would be happy to recommend a few, anyway: Would you advise this added expense is the way to go for heavy duty towing? Or just stick with a stock unit if you have to rebuild? By the way I think your 300,000 km service life with towing is right on with modest care, and incidently that is about right for Toyota Autos as well.
And do you know of a source for a Trans Oil Temp Gauge here in Oz that will fit the bill? The 4R100 would be easy to fit one in the drain plug hole...! Driving to a temp would be good insurance, even if I had to add an additional cooler from Ebay, as my van is 22'....
Regards, LR
FollowupID:
845997
Follow Up By: Bernie and Donna - Friday, Jul 14, 2006 at 05:45
Friday, Jul 14, 2006 at 05:45
This is excellant information however do you know what the expected transmition temp is on the F250 whilse towing (2800kg). I have just purchased a F250 and installed a Pyrometer, Trans Temp and Boost gauges. 2 weeks ago at Coongie lakes the trans temp got to 180 deg F (the gauge is is F not C) in the sand. Would you call this hot ?.
Regards
Bernie
FollowupID:
845998
Follow Up By: Bushtracker - Friday, Jul 14, 2006 at 18:16
Friday, Jul 14, 2006 at 18:16
Bernie, 180 F is getting a bit up there by all reports.......
You would not want to get up to 200 F...... Look, I would take the advice and do one of the heavy towing upgrades. Bigger transmission cooler or synthetic oils, or both. It is not the cost of loosing a transmission to abuse, it is the problem of WHERE it might do it in extreme circumstances... With synthetics and bigger coolers, doing big towing jobs, people have reported temperatures more in the range of 145-165 F... Maybe 180 is just on the OK side, but I would.... Per above...
Regards, Ranger...
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845999