Coolmatic 190ltr

Submitted: Saturday, Dec 02, 2006 at 23:11
ThreadID: 123099 Views:5196 Replies:5 FollowUps:4
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Hello all,

Ok, I seem to be having a slight problem with my fridge.... its converted itself to an oven! I have been thru the posts and checked out the solutions that others have managed, too no avail! The compressor runs for about 3 seconds turns off for about a minute then the pattern continues... before I call the local Waeco agent (who answers the phone with "Credit card number please" ) I was hoping that someone had seen this before.

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Reply By: Andy1 - Sunday, Dec 03, 2006 at 02:10

Sunday, Dec 03, 2006 at 02:10

By am amazing coincidence I have just been searching the old postings for a Coolmatic problem I have about which I will post later.

It is possible that the problem you have is voltage related; the fridge has a startup sequence, firstly the compressor starts then a few seconds later the small computer fan starts. If you have a bad connection, which we experienced at the actual Coolmatic terminal block, the very small start up load of that fan will trip the compressor on low voltage. The sequence just then goes on repeating,

Try disconnecting the fan & see if the compressor stays on - if this is the case your problem is probably a poor connection or in the extreme low voltage supply to the fridge terminal block.


AnswerID: 569868

Follow Up By: Noosa Fox - Monday, Dec 04, 2006 at 21:54

Monday, Dec 04, 2006 at 21:54
I agree with Andy, this is usually a low voltage at the compressor.

If you put the battery charger on and get the voltage up, does it do it then or only when the voltage on the regulator is showing around the 12 volts. The problem is that if the wires were not heavy enough for the distance between the battery and fridge there is a voltage drop and this is also current related. When the fridge trys to start it draws about twice the current that it does when under normal running so although the voltage at battery might be 12.3 volts, for that split second on start up it may drop to below the 11.7 volts that is required to start.

There is a way of allowing the fridge to start at a lower voltage by placing a resitor between to 2 bottom terminals. It is shown in the Danfoss website.

On the terminal block at the rear of the fridge the wires going to the bottom and third from the bottom are for the termostat. If you go to Super cheap or similar and get a wire with 2 aligator clips on each end and then place them between the 2 termostat terminals, then the fridge should run continuously. If this fixes the problem then it is a faulty thermostat. A new thermostat costs about $50 and you can install it yourself in a few minutes. A generic cyclic thermostat can be used in place of Waeco one. If it doesn't then it is more than likely a voltage drop causing it.

What I have done with our fridge was to run a heavy wire direct from Battery to Fridge and then used the existing fridge power wire to activate a relay. This reduced my voltage drop to almost Nil. The only downside is that the solar regulator doesn't record what current the fridge is drawing.

In another van we ran another heavier set of wires through cupboards from battery to solar regulator and then joined them all at an insulated terminal block. This had the same affect of reducing voltage drop, but you still get to see what amps it is drawing.

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Reply By: Motherhen & Rooster - Sunday, Dec 03, 2006 at 03:47

Sunday, Dec 03, 2006 at 03:47
My problem was not so slight - with a Vitrifigo single door 130 litre. On a particularly rough road, the internal freezer section dropped, snapping a gas line going into the freezer jacket, giving similar symptoms to yours, but is was terminal. Sure hope yours is a simple fix. Ask Noosa Fox.

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Reply By: Bushtracker - Monday, Dec 04, 2006 at 19:27

Monday, Dec 04, 2006 at 19:27
There is some current R&D on the Owners Forum. About a half dozen older vans have had a low voltage problem at the fridge for one reason or another. It is a simple mod to fix it with a resistor across two terminals to allow it to start at lower voltages if that is the problem... Only guessing as I cannot see it.. Put these kind of Postings on the Owners Forum, and we can be more specific as to modification or alterations.. Thank you.. LR
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Reply By: Kenso - Wednesday, Dec 06, 2006 at 04:28

Wednesday, Dec 06, 2006 at 04:28
Thanks NF and others who replied,
Turned out the neg pin in the terminal box had somehow become loose on the electronics board, which explains the bad connection. I tried to resolder without success, Ordered a new one from Perth reconnected still nothing, bridged the thermostat again and eureka! It worked so now of to get a new thermostat and everything should be Jake. Took the advantage of the unit being out of the hole to carry out modifications suggested e.g... Double lining the compartment with 10mm sheets of polyurethane, covering the exterior vents and installing a 120mm computer cooling fan at the top and connecting it to the fan on the back of the fridge so it comes on only when needed (as it draws very limited current supply shouldn’t be an issue) and venting the compartment at the bottom by drilling 20mm holes at regular intervals along the rear wall then covering with flywire (stapled down). Well, all there is to do now is to get my “Fridge Mechanic” business cards made up and get out to work! (just joking of course). Also didn’t think it would be a supply issue as the BT is a 2005 model and the wiring appears to be HD.

If anyone is interested this is the exhaust fan I went for sent me a PM if you want the website:

Scythe S-FLEX 120mm Fan SFF21D. This ultra silent fan operates at 800rpm to move 33.5CFM at an incredible 8.7dBA. This is achieved through the use of genuine Sony Fluid Dynamic Bearings. This technology eliminates the friction between the bearing and the shaft making the S-Flex fan nearly inaudible to human ears. An additional suction magnet optimizes the magnetic force balance within the rotor to achieve absolute silence. To further achieve the absolute silence, the fan is equipped with the Linear drive IC for reducing electromagnetic noise.
About $29 + post

Cheers and Beers,
AnswerID: 569871

Follow Up By: Noosa Fox - Wednesday, Dec 06, 2006 at 06:11

Wednesday, Dec 06, 2006 at 06:11
It is amaising how much you can learn about fridges when you have a few problems and then set about to find what is causing it and fix it.

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Follow Up By: Kenso - Wednesday, Dec 06, 2006 at 22:17

Wednesday, Dec 06, 2006 at 22:17
If you know how to fix things when needed, it may not just save your money!

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Follow Up By: Kenso - Friday, Dec 08, 2006 at 05:07

Friday, Dec 08, 2006 at 05:07
On Turists advice I upgraded the 20mm hole to 50mm holes appears to be the ticket.

FollowupID: 846719

Reply By: Turist - Thursday, Dec 07, 2006 at 02:31

Thursday, Dec 07, 2006 at 02:31
I have posted an answer to this thread on the Owners Forum.
(The correct place for discussions such as this.)

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