Bearing Cup removal
Submitted: Monday, Sep 14, 2009 at 03:18
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Andy1
Some time ago the issue of the difficulty in removing the bearing cups during wheel maintenence was discussed. Having bent two steel tent pegs knocking out an inner cup on the Roper I was looking for a suggestion as to tools which might be available to do the job. Bob suggested a brass dift, more hope of getting through the biblical "eye of the needle"!
I managed, by purchasing a bushing set & making some modification with the angle grinder to obtain tools to remove & replace the outer bearing cup & to replace the inner bearing cup which I remove using a small steel bearing bush from the set & a big hammer.
The upshot of this exercise is that the price of the bushing set was > $300 so probably poor value for the money. There must be a better way.
Andy
Reply By: Silver and Tinks - Monday, Sep 14, 2009 at 04:57
Monday, Sep 14, 2009 at 04:57
Andy
I just use a 12 inch socket extension bar.
Use the round end on the bearing cup and hit the square end.
I use it on both my boat and van and have used the same bar for twenty years.
I think I paid 5 bucks for it.
Best wishes Scott
AnswerID:
578878
Reply By: Bow & Nan - Monday, Sep 14, 2009 at 17:18
Monday, Sep 14, 2009 at 17:18
Andy
When I was a apprentice we were told never use a brass drift on a bearing.
Greg
AnswerID:
578879
Reply By: Noosa Fox - Monday, Sep 14, 2009 at 17:30
Monday, Sep 14, 2009 at 17:30
While Andy has started a thread on bearings, I thought it might be worth mentioning something that Richard from Simplicity said on Friday.
Many of us are carrying spare bearings around just in case, but he said the bearing should be separated from the bearing cup with paper or packed in grease to stop the dry bearings from chattering against the cup while on rough roads and being ruined before you get to use them. Many of us at the Muster were not aware of this fact, so a lot of others out there are no doubt in the same boat.
John Duncan changed some bearings yesterday and used the extension bar from a socket set to knock the cup out with also.
Brian
AnswerID:
578880
Follow Up By: Andy1 - Monday, Sep 14, 2009 at 18:26
Monday, Sep 14, 2009 at 18:26
Brunelling (after the great British Engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel) can be an issue but with bearings as light as we use in our vans the risk must be at about the same level as winning the Golden Casket.
When I was a lad, a very long time ago, in the Sugar Industry all of the large spare engine bearings in store were regularly rotated to reduce the chance of brunelling.
Andy
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851780
Reply By: Sundy & Cyclone - Monday, Sep 14, 2009 at 18:38
Monday, Sep 14, 2009 at 18:38
All I have ever used ("in my mechanicing days") is a punch bar about 200 mm long. Something along the lines of a centre punch but with a square end rather than a point, mine actually started off life as a centre punch but I took to it with a bench grinder.What John Duncan used is a good substitute but you do need a fairly "square" edge, and work your way around the cup rather than concentrating on one spot. Replace the new one the same way so that it goes in squarely and evenly until solid on its seat in the hub.
Take care, cheers Tony
AnswerID:
578881
