Marveer Furniture Polish - still available

Submitted: Sunday, May 23, 2010 at 02:12
ThreadID: 126591 Views:10595 Replies:10 FollowUps:0
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Good stuff for the Tassie Oak cupboards, but i can't find it in the shops any more. I saw one spray can in Woolworths, but no bottles of the good oil in any of the shops i checked out.

Has anyone purchased it recently?



Motherhen
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Reply By: Motherhen & Rooster - Sunday, May 23, 2010 at 02:13

Sunday, May 23, 2010 at 02:13
Topic should have a ? after it
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AnswerID: 580502

Reply By: Pixellator - Sunday, May 23, 2010 at 04:14

Sunday, May 23, 2010 at 04:14
Hi Mrs Chook

Here's a link:
Marveer

It's dated 2008, so it may be discontinued. Not much other stuff on Google related to availability. May be worth an email to Woolworths.

Cheers
BobH
AnswerID: 580503

Reply By: CD & JW - Sunday, May 23, 2010 at 06:54

Sunday, May 23, 2010 at 06:54
I think you are right - no longer available.

I did see an interesting article while searching for polish info,
plenty of elbow grease looks the go with this solution -


For wood furniture, when do I use polish, when wax, etc?
A: I've always used wax and never oil
But here's what the pros have to say about it:

Oil or wax? If you're looking for quick and easy, there's not a good answer. Sure, putting a little oil polish on a rag and giving the furniture a quick once-over is fast, but you'll wind up needing to dust twice as often. Oils attract dust rather than repelling it, so while the furniture will sparkle and look wonderful right after it's been polished, it will quickly look dusty again and some of that dust will mix in with the oil, making the furniture increasingly difficult to clean and easier to scratch. Why, then, do most museums oil their furniture? The answer is both simple and complicated. Oil does help the finish – not the wood – of your furniture. Over time, finishes tend to lose moisture and "evaporate" from the wood, causing cracks and crumbles in the finish. However, this process happens over a long, long time and chances are that normal day-to-day use of the furniture will wear more of the finish off the piece than what will "evaporate" from the finish drying out. Instead, you're better off using a wax to help protect the wood itself and to help minimize dust rather than being overly concerned with the moisture level in the finish.

Liquid waxes are somewhat better than oils – they do create a surface coating on the wood that will help the dust slide off the furniture instead of sticking to it, but the protection doesn't last as long as paste wax.

The best protection for your wood furniture is a good paste wax, one with less paraffin and more carnauba wax. These waxes are quite hard – it's a good idea to scrape out a small amount (think a ball the size of a quarter) put it in the cloth you're going to use and then begin kneading it back and forth for a few minutes until it's soft enough to work with. Begin waxing the furniture, using small circular motions and really rub it into the surface of the wood. And remember, the harder the wax is, the more it will protect your furniture. Be sure to take breaks regularly if working on a larger piece of furniture – waxing is hard work and in order to do a good job, you want to make sure you're fresh while you're doing it.

Once you've applied a good wax coat, it should last for about a year to two years depending on how much use the piece sees. If, after five to ten years, the finish appears cloudy or as if it might be darker, rub the wood down with mineral oil to strip off all the old applications of wax and then apply a fresh coat of wax – some purists swear by mineral spirits instead of mineral oil. However, mineral spirits can be very dangerous to use. Read the directions and warnings carefully if you use mineral spirits.

If you use furniture oil instead of wax, you'll also see the finish begin to darken in a few years. Unfortunately, the oil actually rubs dirt and grime into the wood finish and there's no way to strip that off the wood without completely stripping the finish off as well.

If you're looking for a duller coat or an antique "glow" on your wood, try beeswax instead of a carnauba wax.

AnswerID: 580504

Reply By: Pam and Les - Sunday, May 23, 2010 at 21:52

Sunday, May 23, 2010 at 21:52
When we had the kitchen installed in our house some 9 years ago, they gave us a can of Wattyl Danish wax (not oil). We use it on the BT and it’s great. Don’t know if you can get it any more. Thinly smear it on the wood, allow it to penetrate then buff it up. Very easy to apply, no elbow grease needed. Shines like the car duco, not sticky and doesn’t attract dust.
AnswerID: 580505

Reply By: Wilmo7 - Monday, May 24, 2010 at 05:55

Monday, May 24, 2010 at 05:55
We use Gleen Furniture polish with beeswax and it seems to do a good job.It is available in IGA stores and is labelled as an IGA product.
Len
AnswerID: 580506

Reply By: bindi - Monday, May 24, 2010 at 18:15

Monday, May 24, 2010 at 18:15
I USE "MAXWAX', expensive but very good , made by our Kiwi cousins for use on Teak and Oak, and according to the 'blurb' "leaves the surface non-sticky and well protected', it is a penetrating wax thereby reducing cracking and splitting.
AnswerID: 580507

Reply By: The Chair man - Tuesday, May 25, 2010 at 03:45

Tuesday, May 25, 2010 at 03:45
We are furniture manufacturers so very familiar with furniture finishes, a word of warning, do not EVER use Mr. Sheen or any polish with silicone in it. If your furniture ever needs to be recoated, the silicone makes it very difficult to get a run free finish, hence it is a much more expensive job to have done.

The Chair Man
AnswerID: 580508

Reply By: Two Doo - Tuesday, May 25, 2010 at 04:07

Tuesday, May 25, 2010 at 04:07
Greetings to the Chairman, I would like to know what you would use on a superbly crafted violin, should you know where one is?
Warwick
AnswerID: 580509

Reply By: Maximus - Wednesday, May 26, 2010 at 01:46

Wednesday, May 26, 2010 at 01:46
Am right in thinking that the wood in the BT is finished in a varnish/sealer so would any oil penetrate the finish? The timber in the museums were not finished by the products we have today and they did dry out.
Barrie & Daph
' Maximus '

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AnswerID: 580510

Reply By: The Chair man - Thursday, May 27, 2010 at 08:08

Thursday, May 27, 2010 at 08:08
Return greetings Warwick, yes the finish on the BT cupboards is a lacquer and all it needs is a wipe with a SLIGHTLY DAMP cloth, immediately followed with a dry cloth. Products used on top of the lacquer do not penetrate only attract finger prints and dust.

The Chair Man
AnswerID: 580511

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