TOW HITCH TIGTHENER
Submitted: Friday, Jun 11, 2010 at 16:10
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www.rocktamers.com.au/otherproducts.html
Visited the BNE van show and saw this gadget for fixing the issue of flogged out hitch pins.......so I got one. Looks like the answer to me so I got one. Yet to install it but I will weld a thickener plate to the round bolt head side of the hitch socket. probably not necessary as the manufacturer claims the unit enhances the strength of the coupling.
I will carry a 1/2" ratchet with a 24mm socket for the hex nut.
The only fitting required is to drill a 24mm hole in the side of the hitch socket. I will rig some sort of a jig to ensure a plumb hole.
Cost was $35
Reply By: The Murray Marauders - Tuesday, Jun 15, 2010 at 01:44
Tuesday, Jun 15, 2010 at 01:44
G'day Ern,
How about a photo or two on the site so we can have a look at what you are doing????
John D
AnswerID:
580615
Reply By: The Murray Marauders - Tuesday, Jun 15, 2010 at 01:52
Tuesday, Jun 15, 2010 at 01:52
G'day again Ern
Just went in and had a look at Rocktamers site and don't need photos now. Did you see the solid WDH solution with regard to the pin replacement kit? If so, what did they do???
Thanks again
John D
AnswerID:
580616
Follow Up By:- Tuesday, Jun 15, 2010 at 10:57
Tuesday, Jun 15, 2010 at 10:57
Yes John this is what I'm talking about. Have just obtained a large drill to enlarge the receiver pin hole to 24mm on the LHS as I am not cacky handed( with the bolt nut on the right.).
Will let you know how the job goes.....probably tomorrow.
FollowupID:
852626
Reply By: The Murray Marauders - Wednesday, Jun 16, 2010 at 00:23
Wednesday, Jun 16, 2010 at 00:23
Thanks Ern,
I look forward to it. I have already drilled mine out and put a larger bolt with nylock nut on it but it doesn't stop it from flogs up and down at the mouth of the tow bar receiver. I have actually run a couple of welds along the hitch and then ground them down to try and get a tighter fit, however it still flogs up and down but not as bad as it did before.
Thanks again, cya
John D
AnswerID:
580617
Follow Up By: Noosa Fox - Wednesday, Jun 16, 2010 at 01:56
Wednesday, Jun 16, 2010 at 01:56
John,
I haven't done it yet but I believe if a second hole is drilled through towards the front end of the hitch and receiver and a bolt put through there, that the 2nd bolt would prevent any movement and stop any slop in the whole set up.
I intend to put a load on the tow bar and then drill the other hole, and that way the hitch tongue would be in the best location at the far end when the hole was drilled.
Brian
FollowupID:
852627
Reply By: The Murray Marauders - Wednesday, Jun 16, 2010 at 05:03
Wednesday, Jun 16, 2010 at 05:03
G'day Brian,
Yes, I think that will work for sure, my only worry is that with two holes are we interfering with the strength integrity of the hitch?????
J.C.D.
AnswerID:
580618
Reply By: Deleted User - Wednesday, Jun 16, 2010 at 16:11
Wednesday, Jun 16, 2010 at 16:11
This modification involves enlarging one hitch pin hole of the receiver to 24mm. This is the only work necessary. The round head of the new bolt fits inside this hole and when the bolt is tightened the solid square tongue is pulled up against the opposite inside of the receiver which hopefully fully immobiles it.
I am also adding a 50x50x6 reinforcing steel plate with a 24mm hole on the bolt head side welded to the receiver(belt and braces).
Any good bolt shop should be able to supply the HT bolt and nyloc nut and also an allen key to fit the head of the bolt.
AnswerID:
580619
Follow Up By:- Thursday, Jun 17, 2010 at 17:47
Thursday, Jun 17, 2010 at 17:47
Drilled the hole and fitted the bolt and the setup looks like it will do the job. Yet to fix the reinforce plate as have run out of time. Heading of now for a van rally for the weekend.
Drilling the hole in the receiver is not for the faint hearted. For a LC100 Hayman Reece towbar the twist drill needs to be about 250mm long for the drilling machine to have enough clearance. A slow speed high torque drill is required and this is a two man job because the bit will bite and break you arm so watch it.
I expect this method is the answer to the wear problem we all have but only time will tell so stay tuned.
Also it can act as a deterrent to theft. The theif would have to have a shifter and a 1/2" hex key to remove it.
FollowupID:
852628
Reply By: Spirit Gypsys - Friday, Jun 18, 2010 at 08:18
Friday, Jun 18, 2010 at 08:18
Just caught up with this one,
I came up with another solution several years back,
I went to an engineering shop and they welded a 4mm wall thickness tube inside the removable towbar box section then welded 2x 3mm thick washers on either side of the main fixed box section.
Both of these were a neat fit for the pin.
also drilled a hole in the top of the main box section and welded a 14mm nut over it thru which I put a bolt to tighten down onto the tongue and stop movement.
No more wear and no more movement in over 80.000 ks.
AnswerID:
580620
