Broken hinge on Camec door

Wayne,

Lots of vans have had that problem, including ours. After replacing the complete hinge it happened again so the second time I just put rivets through the other section of the hinge, and that was several years ago now without any more problems.

Neil Matthews (BoysToy) from Sydney has had similar problems and he has a pulley arrangement that goes down the inside of wall beside the door so you might like to speak with him. Neil put the BOG Bible together so he may have something in there about what he has done.

While you are doing things with the door, the outside door handle is also a problem and many have had that break off. If you put a piece of metal like a split pin down the gaps on each side and then use some fibreglass bog or araldite to fill in the gap it gives it a lot more strength and doesn't seem to break.


Brian

I did the small dia wire rope at the top to mine. Pictures on my photos site.

For those of us that are all thumbs, images of all discussed would be appreciated.

Image Could Not Be Found

Hi Jay

After one breakage per owner, the door was running out of rivet spots. I can happen so easily in very strong winds - the wind actually blows the door out of your hand and the hinge cracks.

These were version one - made of a very lightweight chain enclosed in clear plastic tubing so it didn't rub against the door. It was so soft, that the ends straighten and it can fall off when slack. A straight cable like others have would be better (so long since we've been away i can't remember what my husband replaced it with).

Motherhen

Thanks MH; some close up images would be appreciated. Cheers,

Door Saver

I was inspired by the cable arrangement on Uncle Dodgys van, so I made an improved version.

1) The cable system prevents the door from crashing when the wind gets at it.

2) The retractor mechanism acts as an automatic door closer

3) A simple security stop only allows the door to partially open to keep out nasties.

The system consists of a 1.5mm stainless steel cable which is bolted to the door, and runs over a pulley at the top of the door frame. The end of the cable is attached to a 4mm bungie cord which runs around a pulley at the bottom of the door frame, & then runs up to an attachment at the top of the door frame. This length is necessary to get the necessary stretch.

There is an adjustable sleeve mounted where the cable joins the bungie cord, and this is adjusted to a stop to limit the doors travel.

The security stop has a slot cut in it so that the door cable can be slipped into it to provide a second stop (the security stop.)

In the photos, I have used a single pulley at the top of the door. This needs to have the centre tapered so that the pulley can adjust to the angular swing of the door.

I am planning a further modification using two pulleys mounted on a bracket which will simply mount at the top of the door to make installation easier. I haven’t found the necessary pulleys yet, and when I do, I will document the modification for other Boggers to follow.

In the meantime I hope this helps. This current version has been in service for about 8000km without problems. But it is fiddely to get it to work. Wait for the next version.

Neil
!MPG:18!!MPG:19!!MPG:20!!MPG:21!

Luvintravelin;
Sorry something I should have mentioned earlier.
I went away from using chain inside plastic tube, because the chain being light was prone to stretch, and eventualy allow the hinge to be stressed.
I found the cable (braided fishing trace wire) to be better, and fitted it to the top of the door from (when inside looking out) the top left of the doorway to the top left of the door ( the screened door and not the outer door as this allows the outer door to be open with the inner closed).
I spoke at length with Neil while we were at Tepon and I feel that his new modified version will be far superior once he located the bits. What he has now is already better than mine I feel.
I wait for his improved version as I feel that will be the way to go.
Cheers
John