Removing the Thetford C2 for service

Submitted: Tuesday, Feb 22, 2011 at 04:14
ThreadID: 127223 Views:2974 Replies:3 FollowUps:0
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Whatever your reason for service, it may be necessary to remove the unit from the ensuite.
It may be that your arms are six inches too short to work on the flushing mechanism.
In my case it was the above (temporarily fixed in Carnarvon WA last year with a toggle switch to flush) and an annoying slight leak on the top of the cassette.
Also noted that the blade did not always open fully, so was suspecting something worn or loose in the inaccessible area allowing the leak. All seals had been replaced about twelve months ago.

Removal of the C2

The Thetford C2 sits on a mounting bracket attached to the wall of the ensuite, & requires a vertical lift to set it free. But not so fast! There is a trim piece of white Formica at the back of the unit that
(in my case) sits about 10mm over the back of the C2. This has to be removed otherwise you will break it! You need to slide a sharp knife under it & cut the sikaflex that attaches it to the mounting bracket. In my case this was six dollops of sikaflex, each about 50mm in diameter.
The C2 is also glued to the floor, & requires a LONG sharp knife & much patience to cut the two enormous dollops of sikaflex, each about 120mm diameter. I used an old butchers knife for most of the cut, but this wasn’t long enough, & don’t tell the wife, I used a long breadknife from the kitchen to finish the cuts.
Once you have run a knife around all of the edges & cut the trimming sikaflex, the unit should be loose & you can lift it vertically off the mounting bracket.
Now in my case the funny part starts. The C2 is a neat fit between the walls of the ensuite, & the door jamb stops you from moving the C2 in any direction except up!

To remove the door frame

The door frame is held in by three screws on each side which are conveniently hidden by the extrusion. To gain access to these screws, a section of the extrusion has to be removed.
But before you do this, the door striker mechanism needs to be removed.
First slide the spring-loaded striker up or down so you can get a small screwdriver in behind it & lever it out. This gives you access to a pop rivet, which is then drilled out. The striker mounting plate then can be removed. If you don’t do this, the striker mounting plate will be broken when you remove the extrusion.

The extrusion section to be removed is the section that the door closed onto.
Standing outside the ensuite, place fingers of both hands behind the right-angle part of the extrusion, & pull towards you.
This section should unclip & spring out. This gives you access to the mounting screws.
After removing these, & the angle trim strip in the ensuite, & cut the sikafkex , the frame is loose.
I found it necessary to only remove this side to get the C2 out of the ensuite.

Now you can put the C2 on the bench & have a reasonable chance of both seeing & fixing anything that is wrong with it, but that’s another story.

Good luck!!

A Bushtracker (or BT) is a "Boys Toy"

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Reply By: Tassie Bushies - Wednesday, Feb 23, 2011 at 08:18

Wednesday, Feb 23, 2011 at 08:18
Hi Neil,
Another one for the BOG Bible. Your rackin em up.
How come you alllllways get to play with all the s....y bits? & it seems like you enjoy it!
Regards Peter.

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Reply By: focs18 - Wednesday, Feb 23, 2011 at 18:36

Wednesday, Feb 23, 2011 at 18:36
Hi Pete

This is why Pat called their BT a Boys Toy.

From memory, I am sure at the Herberton Muster it was pointed out the Thetford is a blue area.

Living Life to the Fullest in a BT

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Reply By: Strpr - Monday, Feb 28, 2011 at 08:00

Monday, Feb 28, 2011 at 08:00
Yes it is a rotten job getting that Thetford out. However I managed to get it out through the door without taking the doorframe trim off. As I needed only a couple of millimeters to lift the unit past the frame I simply put enough body pressure on the inside wall and flexed it enough to obtain the clearance needed. Used the same method to get it back.
I don,t know if other BTs have the same clearance though.

By the way, so I never have to do this again I completely overhauled every component possible including all new wiring. I also placed bypass wiring to a waterproof fused switch that powers the pump directly as a backup. One more point is that the metal plate at the rear of the unit is prone to rust on older units so I sandblasted it gave it a heavy coat of cold galv followed by a couple of heavy coats of 2 pack epoxy.

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