Canning Stock Route

The Canning Stock Route (CSR) is one of the most remote and isolated 4WD tracks in the world and holds its appeal as the "last frontier". Stretching about 1850km from its southern end in Wiluna, to its northern end at Billiluna Community on the Tanami Track, there are no towns along the way, no major services, and a general absence of emergency support.

The route traverses the Gibson Desert, Little Sandy Desert and the Great Sandy Desert and runs through 4 determined native title areas - Tjurabalan, Ngurrara, Martu and Birriliburu and the area around Wiluna.

Planning to undertake a trip along the Canning Stock Route requires significant planning and research, with fuel, water and food (your basic requirements for survival) being your foremost priority. But there are many logistical issues that you may not yet have contemplated. This Trek Note contains information based on years of research, feedback, first-hand experience, local and community input and is relevant reading for any traveller - whether travelling solo, in convoy, or in a tag-along group.

If you do not already have extensive experience travelling remote desert areas and are not fully equipped to handle emergency breakdowns and repairs, then you should not consider driving this route solo. However, if driving with a group, do not travel in large convoys - 4 is considered plenty. Many campsites are small, as are the stops points of interest; larger groups tend to spread out beyond UHFradio signal strength; generally large groups have difficulty travelling at the same speed and can waste time waiting for all to arrive at stop points along the way; passing large groups is a nuisance for other travellers.

This trek can be undertaken in either direction, and doesn't need to be done in its entirety. There are entry/exit points to both the east and west along the track:

• Near Wells 22 & 23 westward on the Talawana Track
• Near Well 24 eastward to the Gary Highway via the Talawana Track
• At Well 33 eastward to Alice Springs on the Gary Junction Road
• At Well 33 westward on the Kidson Track/Nyangumarta Highway (permit required and fee payable - see Four Wheel Drive Australia
• The southern end can be exited via private station tracks (for a fee) through Granite Peak Station (from Well 5) and GlenAyle Station (from Well 9).

Since the northern end is affected by wet season conditions throughout the Australian summer and often into Autumn, access is totally weather dependent. It is typical for the section Wells 36 - 51 to be extremely boggy and can even become impassable at the salt lake areas. In times of wet weather, even the southern section can become problematic, with the section between Wells 2 - 5 through Cunyu Station sometimes closed to all traffic.

More planning information is detailed in the information booklet issued with your permit pack. Also see www.CanningStock Route.net.au and the Canning Stock Route Facebook Group.

Environment

The desert is a very fragile area and despite being a remote area, the Canning Stock Route is subject to a large volume of human impact by the volume of campers and travellers that use the track each season. See our Travel Etiquette, and Care for the Environment articles for practical tips and protocols for how to ensure your impact on the environment is minimised. Toilets are provided at:

• Well 3
• Windich Spring
• Well 6
• Well 12
• Well 15
• Durba Spring
• Georgia Bore
• Well 26
• Well 41
• Well 49

You will need your own toilet paper. In other areas, you should dig toileting pits with a spade (keeping well away from campsites, wells, and roadsides). Please burn your toilet paper in the hole before covering with soil so it isn't dug up by animals.

The Canning Stock Route contains numerous operational stock watering points, and some that are now in ruin. Regardless of the condition of these water points, you should not use or interfere with the equipment or stock troughs. Do not use the troughs at wells for bathing, and do not pour water into the troughs for the animals. All wells should be left with lids closed to stop animals entering and polluting the water supply.

A number of wells on the CSR have been refurbished; water is also available from hand pumps from springs. The quality and condition of water collected can vary for a number of reasons including; a lack of rain and the well is dry, too much rain and debris and salt has tainted the water, animals falling in and decomposing, the well has collapsed, etc. There are a number of methods of purifying water; do your research thoroughly. It is the responsibility of the traveller to ensure any water collected is safe to drink. Given the conditions outlined above water may be available at:

• Well 3 - refurbished well, quality may vary, suggest water be treated
• Windich Spring - water needs to be treated
• Well 5 - refurbished by Chamberlain 9G Tractor Club
• Well 9 - refurbished by GlenAyle, suggest water be treated
• Well 12 - refurbished well - good water
• Well 15 - refurbished by Track Care WA
• Durba Spring - water needs to be treated
• Well 18 - refurbished by Track Care
• Georgia Bore - hand pump installed by CRA
• Well 26 - refurbished a number of times, most recently by Track Care WA
• Well 33 - Water available at windmill adjacent to Well 33
• Well 41 - refurbished by Track Care WA June 2018
• Well 46 - refurbished by Track Care WA
• Well 49 - refurbished by Track Care WA
• Billiluna - good water

Flora/Fauna

You might be surprised to discover that the desert supports a vast range of flora and fauna. Although much of the route is classified as sand desert, you'll see many sand dunes that are not only stabilised, but vegetated! Rainfall in the region is erratic with some years recording extremely wet periods that fill salt lakes, ground waters and replenish surface rock holes so the desert you experience one year, may well be very different to the next time you visit.

The most common form of vegetation along the CSR is Spinifex, and all forms of this plant provide habitation for numerous insects, reptiles, small mammals and even birds. The largest eucalypts on the CSR are White gums Eucalyptus victrix (Windich, Pierre, Durba) these grow to 20m, Bloodwood gums of various types including; Eucalyptus opaca, E. chippendalei, E. lenziana and E. deserticola. These grow (to 10m and are found on stony slopes, laterite ridges and on sand plains and is notable by a white stem and often pink or yellow branches. The Desert Oak (Allocasuarina descaisneana ) is one of the more unusually striking trees that even those with no botanical interest will want to know its name. Often found close to salt lakes (eg. Lake Disappointment) this tree appears in groves often in the absence of vegetation other than small spinifex hummocks and grow to 12 metres. The Desert Poplar (Codonocarpus cotinifolius) thrives in the northern section of the CSR, with lush foliage along branches from the ground up along a single brown trunk. Also of great surprise to first-time desert travellers are the vast numbers of flowering plants. Acacias (wattles) of 2-6m are widespread with the Mulga the most prominent species in the station country in the southern section. Travellers will observe changes in vegetation around salt lakes with salt tolerant plants various species of saltbush (Atriplex) and various species of samphire (Tecticornia). The Grass Tree (Xanthorrhoea preissii) growing at Well 6 are a unique find being the most northerly stand known in Australia.

Amongst the great range of fauna known to exist within the CSR, termites are extensively obvious and their rapid depletion of woods is the reason why Canning's wooden well formations have lost the battle against time. And when the ants are annoying your camp try to remember the important role they play in aiding flower pollination. The non-stinging wild bee produces honey cells and their hives are found in tree tops, hollow logs, and rock crevices. The much larger black bee found north of Durba Hills, and predominantly north of Killagurra has a ferocious sting. Bees are more active in the cooler parts of the day. Centipedes and millipedes are common and although cause significant pain if bitten are not dangerous. We must mention snakes as the Bandy Bandy, Death Adder and King Brown are known to be present in the CSR region. Over 100 species of birds are reportedly living in close proximity to the Canning Stock Route with honey eaters, finches, doves, galahs, pigeons, budgerigars, and parrots being predominant and widespread although Durba Springs with its almost permanent water supply is one of the best birdwatching areas of the stock route.

History

The Canning Stock Route was created by Alfred Canning, who was chosen to survey a route for Kimberley cattlemen to take their stock to the southern markets at a time when cattle tick issues prevented the use of other transport methods. From 1906 to 1907, Canning conducted a full survey from north to south and return and fund a stock route was feasible.

From 1908 to 1910 he led a team to construct the 51 wells between Halls Creek and Wiluna a distance of 1850km. Wells were constructed one day's travel apart for a mob of cattle. Extra wells were established in southern parts of the route to accommodate the more limited range of sheep.

By 1929 the condition of the original wells and equipment had deteriorated due to fire, termites and the occasional act of vandalism to a stage where it became imprudent to drove cattle along the route. At this stage, only 5 mobs of cattle and 3 mobs of horses had actually made the trip. In 1929 the Government decided to refurbish the CSR, William Snell led a reconstruction team. He was unable to complete the refurbishments due to excessive temperatures, and so he returned to Wiluna. The Government, upon receiving complaints about the quality of Snell's work, did not renew its contract with him. They asked A.W. Canning (now 68 years old) to complete the job - a task he accepted.

During WWII (1942 - 1944) the stock route was again refurbished, with the wells brought back into operation in anticipation of an emergency evacuation if the NW was bombed. At the end of the war, shipping of livestock resumed and slowly the stock route fell into disrepair. It continued to be used however, with droving parties completing rudimentary maintenance. It was used for another 14 droves from 1945, with the last being in 1959.

The earliest use of vehicles was by Percy V. O'Brien, Chief Engineer of the Mines Department Water Supply in Kalgoorlie, travelled up the CSR as far as Lake Nabberu driving a 8 hp De Dionar in 1908. As four wheel drives become more available, others with business along the route eg. drover support surveyors, government doggers and well refurbishment, managed to penetrate further into the sand dune country. However, it wasn't until 1968 that Chudleigh, Wenholz and Kealley completed the first traverse of the Canning Stock Route by motor vehicle. They used Landrovers.

When the fuel dump was established at Well 23 in the 1980's, travellers intrigued by the Canning Stock Route heritage and the challenging overland adventure across Australia's most remote deserts, began to travel the Canning Stock Route in greater numbers. Today, the attraction is the journey itself rather than a destination and up to 100 vehicles per day are known to spread out across the route during the peak season.

Do not attempt the Canning Stock Route unless you have extensive outback travel experience and have a very reliable and capable vehicle that has been specifically prepared for a remote, long distance, desert travel. Drivers should focus on assessing the vehicle's suspension, brakes, shock absorbers, steering, bearings, clutch if a manual gear box etc and spares of critical components should be taken.

For detailed checklists & advice regarding remote area travel, you are strongly encouraged to read the following articles: 4WD Driving Skills & Rules; What to Take; Recovery Gear Needs; Spare Parts and Tools; Food & Water; Water Tank; Long Range Fuel Tanks; Suspension; EPIRB; HF Radio; UHF Radio; Satphone; Staying in Touch as well as Travel Etiquette; Care for the Environment; Snake Bite Treatment; Outback Survival; & Driver Fatigue. Every single one of these articles should be read in their entirety before doing this trip. There is so much invaluable advice to be gained. These articles contain extensive factual information and practical advice. Written by the ExplorOz editorial team, these articles are regularly updated to ensure facts remain current. However, in providing any advice and information, ExplorOz accepts no responsibility for any incidents, accidents, injuries, problems etc that may occur. You are referred to our Site Terms of Use in relation to using information we publish.

Communications

It is irresponsible to rely on other people having this equipment for your benefit and you should ensure that you have at least one form of emergency contact device. Of major importance is using the designated UHF Channel 40 to alert your presence to other oncoming vehicles on the track. Particularly in dune areas, solo vehicles or lead vehicles in a group should periodically call out from the dune tops giving your location and direction of travel. This precautionary effort is very effective in limiting unnecessary head on collisions. In summary, you need an UHF radio for vehicle to vehicle communication, plus either an EPIRB, Satellite Phone or HF radio for emergency communication.

For any dune driving you should also fly a dune flag (sandflag) from the front of your vehicle to avoid head on collisions on dune tops. Why not get an ExplorOz Sandflag? These are sold in our online shop (we no longer sell the flag pole kit, sorry).

Travelling with Campers & Trailers

Towing of trailers and campers on the CSR is not recommended. Damage to the track, damage to the trailers, and damage to the tow vehicle suspension and towing connections is possible if you do. For these reasons, it is STRONGLY suggested that travellers use swags, tents or similar.

Warnings & Restrictions

If traveling with a trailer or camper, you will not be permitted to travel the section of the CSR track north of Wiluna through to Well 5. If you do, you will be turned back at Well 2a (northbound), or if travelling south you'll be turned back at Windich Springs. Detours at located at Well 9 and Well 5 onto private station tracks (fee payable). See permits section for more details.

Emergency Evacuations

An airstrip is located near the track at Kunawarritji Community Well 33, backed up with weekly RFDS nurse support. Other airstrips are located at each pastoral lease to the south; Panngurr Community (Cotton Creek) 100km west of Well 23); and at Billiluna community at the far north near the Tanami Track.

Drinking Water and Use of Wells

Drinking water is generally available from Wells 3, Windich Spring, Well 6, Well 9, Well 12, Well 15, Durba Spring, Well 18, Georgia Bore, Well 26, Well 33 windmill, Well 41, Well 46, Well 49 and Billiluna. However, this can vary with every season due to flooding and other acts of nature. Other wells may be found flooded at any time or have water of dubious quality. Well water quality is poor at many wells and you will need to be able to take on large amounts (100L plus) at wells where water is good. A stainless steel water tank either in or under the body of the vehicle, coupled with some reserves in plastic jerry cans is recommended. You will also need to take a strong bucket (galvanised 15L) to draw water up from most wells, plus a length of either metal or nylon rope of approx. 20m.

Phone Contacts

Keep this handy reference in case of emergency or to make advance enquiries:
Wiluna Police: (08) 9981 7024
Cunyu Station (no access): (08) 9981 2934
Granite Peak Station: (08) 9981 2983
GlenAyle Station: (08) 9981 2989
Capricorn Roadhouse: (08) 9175 1535
Panngurr (Cotton Creek): (08) 9176 9051
Kunawarritji Community (fuel 5 1/2 days): (08) 9176 9040
Billiluna Store (fuel 5 days, limited hours): (08) 9168 8076
Halls Creek Police: (08) 9168 6000

Permits

Mandatory permits are available to enable people to access the Canning Stock Route for tourism and/or sightseeing purposes. For tourists, the application and payment process is done online and is straightforward, however there are certain restrictions that are detailed within the permit so you are recommended to apply early to ensure you have time to read the documentation and plan your trip around these conditions. If you seek access to the CSR for reasons other than general tourism then other approvals may be required.

People wishing to travel the full length of the CSR and/or across sections are required to have applied and paid for two (2) permits as explained below:

One permit covers access to the Birriliburu, Ngurrara and Tjurabalan sections between Wells 5-15 and between Wells 40-51. To obtain your permit you need to visit the Canning Stock Route Online Visitor Permit System to apply and pay fees ($50 for non-commercial light vehicles ie. standard 4WD vehicles; or $100 for non-commercial heavy vehicles ie. Oka, Mitsubishi Canter 4WD; all commercial vehicles $125; all trailers $25; all walkers/cyclists $25). Manual applications and payment are also offered (see details online) however additional administration charges are applied. Also be aware that if you request a cancellation and refund, you will be charged an $11 service fee.

The second permit you require is for the Martu section between Wells 16-39. To obtain this permit go to the Four Wheel Drive Australia website to obtain your permit. The permit cost is $100 for tourist vehicles, or $250 for commercial operators' vehicles. The minimum total permit fee per tourist vehicle is therefore $150 if you plan to travel the full length of the CSR.

Fees for Access via GlenAyle or Granite Peak Stations

If you need to access the CSR via GlenAyle or Granite Peak stations you will need to pay the following fees upon arrival. Please bring cash. Granite Peak (exit/access to CSR via Well 5) is currently $30 per vehicle, $15 per trailer, $40 for Oka-type vehicles, trucks and buses. GlenAyle (exit/entry to CSR via Well 9) is a flat rate of $20. Please note that these stations do not offer any other services/supplies to tourists.

Please note that fees and conditions are current as at July 2018. These can change without notice. The two permit application sites listed above will have the most current information.

Fuel Supplies & Usage

Kunawarritji Roadhouse, Billiluna Community Store.Fuel is reliably available from bowsers at the Kunawarritji Community about half way along the route (in the vicinity of Well 33).

Diesel	ULP	LPG
4cyl 317 litres *	4cyl 247 litres *	4cyl 401 litres
6cyl 338 litres *	6cyl 421 litres *	6cyl 353 litres
8cyl 330 litres *	8cyl 333 litres

Best Time To Visit

Recommended travel is between June and September due to extremes of heat, isolation and chance of wet, boggy conditions outside these times.

Services & Supplies

Travel the full length of Australia's longest stock route and to see 51 Wells tapping the great artesian basin constructed by Alfred Canning & Co; see waterholes, gorges, spring and soaks, and enjoyable camping in the remote desert environment.

Other than at Pierre Springs (Well 6) and Durba Springs where toilet facilities have been installed there are no designated campsites. In general most travellers tend to stop overnight at the sites of Wells for convenience (water supply), ease of navigation (calculating distance), something to do (a point of interest), and most contain decent clearings for convoys to spread out, however there are many beautiful sites where you can simply pull over and camp anywhere along the route - taking note not to enter restricted areas nor to impact upon the environment unnecessarily. The following is just a selection. We recommend you browse the map other Places nearby.